I'm pleased to announce my first knol (a unit of knowledge) titled A Photographer's Guide to Manly. For this guide and more like it from locations around the world check out this website. It's a great resource when researching locations for shooting, a reference I use and will be contributing to in the future.

After receiving an email requesting some Aerial photography advice I thought I would post some information here. There doesn't seem to be much information out there so please post your comments and hopefully we can get something a bit more substantial.

Unless you are Ken Duncan and can afford to hire the entire helicopter, take the doors off and shoot to your heart's content you are likely to be riding with others and shooting through a narrow window. If this is the case riding shotgun will allow you a bit more freedom. Don't expect to be able to take the kit bag up front, space is limited so better make the right lens choice prior to flying. Depending on how high you are flying you want something that is reasonably long. I took my 70-200mm F2.8 Canon L Series glass which was great at 200mm but not quite wide enough at 70mm. I would suggest taking a wide angle lens in a pouch so that you can take it up front with you or even better choose a lens that is both wide and long.

Fast shutter speeds are essential as vibrations from the engine, motion blur and long focal lengths can result in very soft images. Bump up your ISO to get fast shutter speeds, you can also dial down the aperture if you are shooting straight down as you won't need much depth of field. In the following examples I used F14/F16, in retrospect I could have used a lower value as the scene didn't have too much depth of field. This in turn would increase my shutter speed and lower my ISO.

Surprisingly the best time of day to shoot ocean and reef shots from above is in the middle of the day when the sun is at its highest point. The surface reflections are minimal so most of the sunlight penetrates and reflects off the sandy ocean floor giving a more intense blue (the red light is filtered out by the water). You also don't need a polarizing filter at this time of day so less to carry. For all other aerial shots sunset and sunrise is still the way to go and ideal to capture lovely long shadows.

Finally, don't stick any part of your camera out of the window, you are likely to lose it or smash the lens against the window frame.

Image Details: F/16, 1/800th, ISO 800

Image Details: F/14, 1/800th, ISO 800

Look for natural patterns for interesting abstract images

Image Details: F/16, 1/800th, ISO 800

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I'm writing this purely out of frustration. I've spent many an hour on the net researching definitive answers trying to build the best filter kit. I haven't found anything specific to my setup so here it is for anyone else looking.

Neutral Density Graduated Filters

Ok, so I have a Canon 5D, I mostly shoot with the Canon 17-40mm L Series lens and as you may have figured I mostly shoot landscapes. Bracketing exposures is a good option (one for the sky and one for the foreground) but I still prefer the getting it right 'in camera' approach so I like to use filters. We are all after dynamic range so they really are a must...I'm still not convinced by HDR software.

What brand of filters should I buy? Are they truly neutral or do they give a colour cast?

Let's start with filters and colour cast. Cokin P Series filters give a pink colour cast and should be avoided like the plague. I'm sure it's the same with the other Cokin series filter but after my experience with the P filters I'm not going to bother trying. What about more expensive filters such as Lee or Singh Ray? Being of Scottish blood I opted to purchase mid range filters made by HiTech (aka Formatt). For the most part I've had an ok experience with them, they still have a colour cast but are definitely a vast improvement on the Cokins. However, when I use the 3 stop ND filters I get lines across the entire image which are very noticeable in the shadows. The images are unusable as you can see:

HiTech 3 stop ND filter

I learned the hard way and had to throw out a handful of images.

As far as Lee or Singh Ray filters I'll let my fellow photographer Brent explain this one. For the tech heads click here. It would seem that regardless of the cost no filter is truly neutral (does that constitute as false advertising?) and of all the brands Lee are the most neutral. I wonder if there is a difference in the optical quality, Anyone? I will definitely be upgrading to Lee filters in the future and be profiling each combination as Brent has done.

Filter Holder

OK now for filter holders. After dropping my Z164 down a waterfall I decided to buy the correct Z Series holder. Playing with it the other night I noticed a big dirty vignette (arrg!). I decided to investigate further.

I setup the 5D with my Canon 17-40mm L series glass to test both the Cokin Z Series and Lee filter holders. Remember the 5D is full frame, the following is not true for cropped sensor cameras.

F4, 17mm no filter holder

F4, 17mm Cokin Z Series filter holder reversed, 77mm adaptor ring

F4, 17mm Cokin Z Series filter holder with 2 slots, 77mm adaptor ring

F4, 17mm Lee filter holder with 3 slots, wide angle 77mm adaptor ring

F16, 17mm no filter holder

F16, 17mm Cokin Z Series filter holder reversed, 77mm adaptor ring

F16, 17mm Cokin Z Series filter holder with 2 slots, 77mm adaptor ring

F16, 17mm Lee filter holder with 3 slots, wide angle 77mm adaptor ring

From the above test you'll notice little or no difference between the holders. The major difference is between the apertures. What I didn't realise in my initial tests was that what I was actually seeing was lens drop off. That is the outer corners of the frame receive less light than the centre causing what seems to be a vignette.

Circular Polarizing Filter

Yes I know using a Circular polarizer on a wide angle lens will give you inconsistent polarization across the sky, and no it doesn't look good...but what if you want to use one and not include the sky? or just cut down reflections in one part of the frame? Will it vignette? Should I splash out on the Lee 105mm CPL ($500AU - $600AU including adaptor ring)? Or what about Cokins Z164? Which filter holder should I go with?

Well I would say go like brand with like brand, the Z164 won't work in the Lee filter holder (see my previous post) and visa versa. I think it's definitely wise to go for the drop-in filter rather than a screw in and then mount the holder on that. The CPL can be used on any size lens with the correct adaptor ring and you can spin the grads independently.

Will it vignette? Here is the Cokin setup:

F4, 17mm Cokin Z Series filter holder reversed with Z164 Circular Polarizing filter, 77mm adapter ring

F16, 17mm Cokin Z Series filter holder reversed with Z164 Circular Polarizing filter, 77mm adapter ring

Yes it will and it will even encroach on the frame, not quite as easy to fix in post.

Summary

As expected the aperture makes a big difference, as I'm shooting landscapes I generally use F16 which makes for a vast improvement. I'm thinking I should have just splashed the cash and got the Lee circular polarizing filter. I'm sure it still vignettes but probably not as bad, I'll post the results when I find out.

Please feel free to ask questions, post your thoughts, correct me if I'm wrong and maybe together we can put this one to rest! So far my thoughts on the ultimate setup are Lee all the way...that's right, Lee endorses Lee.

UPDATE: Have Lee got the solution? Click here for more information.

With my new polarizing filter in hand and after lots of rain fall over Sydney I visited the Valley of Waters near Wentworth Falls in the Blue Mountains. It's a steep climb down especially with kg's of camera equipment but it's definitely worth it, even if I did lose the filter.

This article is for anyone looking to use the Cokin circular polarising filter (Z164) with a Lee filter holder. After lots of consideration I purchased this filter last week to use with my Lee filter holder. The Lee filter holder will hold filters of 100mm in diameter, the exact diameter of the CPL. The perfect match you would think but this is not the case. Yes it does fit but what the Lee filter does not have are little pegs to hold the filter in place and to stop it from sliding out, something the cokin holder does have. I probably should have modified the filter holder before going out for a test run at the weekend. I thought it would be ok as the fit is relatively tight but alas I was wrong and the filter dropped out of the holder and down a waterfall. Fortunately my insurance covered the loss so it didn't sting quite as much as having to buying another one. I think I will be selling my Lee filter holder and going with the Cokin one as I would advise anyone else to do.

Here are some shots I got before dropping the filter down the waterfall, early results look promising!

This is where I dropped my filter, if anyone finds it let me know! This photo didn't make it onto the site, I'll go back when I get the new filter and give it another go.

Several weeks back I thought I would squeeze in a spot of full moon photography so went to Freshwater Reserve as it is relatively dark and close to home. The aim was to shoot towards the sea with the lens hood on to minimise the light pollution from Manly. Three oversights on my part, no one knew where I was, it was 1am, and there was a king tide.

So, I found a spot to take photos well above the tide line, where I had been scoping out for the last 5 minutes. Needless to say I was knocked over by the next two waves, trousers ripped, camera bag and torch submerged and uninsured iPhone in pocket drowned. Lucky for me I didn't have the chance to get my camera out, the camera bag is 'water proof', my torch works underwater (nice!), and the currents didn't drag me out and over the edge. Anyway a lesson that could have cost me more than a $900 iPhone....keep this in mind fellow photographers!

First up I would say use a tripod whenever possible. I hardly take a photo without one. If you want to enlarge those prized images they need to be sharp. Handheld just isn't good enough when you pixel peep and get into 100% magnification. If using a tripod isn't possible grab the camera firmly with both hands one underneath, one to the side and brace the camera with one arm tight against your side. Breathe slowly and when steady take the shot. Alternatively use a rock or wall and hold your camera firmly against it. This is how I took the Mardi Gras shots in my previous post. Of course this isn't advised if you are precious of your gear.

If you are going to use a tripod then I would suggest getting a remote release. They are relatively inexpensive for the basic model and allow you to remove any camera shake introduced by pressing the shutter release. Alternatively using the timer function on your camera allows you to press the release and let the camera/tripod steady itself before the shot is made.

If it's windy try and shelter the camera as much as you can. I've had a few shots at 200mm ruined by the wind.

Remember to keep those tripods as low as possible, the higher they are the less stable. I use an L-Bracket on my camera. It allows me to take portrait shots whilst keeping the centre of gravity over the middle of the tripod.

To further maximise sharpness use the mirror lockup function of the camera if available. This will lock the mirror up before the shutter is released minimising shake from the shutter/mirror action, bit overkill but I guess it all counts.

If we are talking landscape photography and you want those images sharp front to back then I recommend appetures of around F16 for full framed sensors and F11 for cropped. Anything higher you will run into diffraction issues (I'll leave it to the tech heads to explain this).

For a long time a major deterrent for me getting out there and taking photos was my photography gear. I've heard it so many times from professionals and amateurs alike. I would constantly hold off from taking photos waiting for new filters, a new lens, a new camera, or new gadget thinking I will be able to take a better shot when it comes. I wasted so much time using this as an excuse. The truth is getting out there, taking photos allowed me to progress and learn. Waiting around did nothing for me. If you want to succeed you need to push for it, get out there, and take photos because that's why we are in it!

In no particular order lets begin on some photography tips:

Shoot exclusively at sunrise or sunset

Shooting slightly before and up to an hour after sunrise (or an hour before and slightly after sunset) will give you dramatic skies, warmer tones, and an overall more interesting photo. This window of opportunity is referred to as the magic or golden hour. If you want to find something to shoot during the day find a waterfall, forest or something where you don't need to include the sky. If you have no other option try to do it as early or as late as possible. Please don't do it midday!